The Monster in the Pond vs Gatchaman

AM

Least: At around 9:25am I began thanking Japan for sparing me from political advertising on TV. Although the election is big news, it it restricted to the news-ish programs. The downside however, is the rash of shouting vans that smite us from all angles. Most often, the occupants are white-gloved and waving to nobody in particular in a cartoony manner. Another sign is the clutches of men strolling the streets chanting chants and carrying yellow banners. Despite these attempts though, there seems no danger of election fever. I'm yet to speak to someone who thinks that either of the big parties will make any difference.

Most: At 10:50am, Rosie and I pedalled north towards the flea market at the Shitennoji Temple. On the way we made a very brief detour to look at the Matsumushi Zuka that apparently is still shaded by an 800 year old tree. As it turns out we were travelling up part of the Kumano Road which people have been treading for over 1000 years. Amazing, but not quite as amazing as the 5th Century burial mound near our local station or the monster that used to lurk in Mandai Ike (above) until it was banished in the 6th Century. Wow.

PM

Least: At 3:58pm, an ongoing problem with our washing machine sucked the little interest that was left out of the third hour after twelve. It's been boringly misfiring since the morning when a man in billowing pants and a do-rag appeared in our window and insisted that we move the infernal machine indoors. Three days later we shifted it back to the freshly painted balcony. The washing machine was evidently unimpressed and has been slightly less than automatic ever since. One day the incessant beeping will send it over the edge and onto the tram tracks.



Most: By about 12:10pm, my neck was being seared as we strolled around the flea market at Shitennoji. The number of stalls was vast as was the range of items for sale. Some of the more notable pieces of clutter were, ivory carvings, prehistoric stone tools, dismembered samurai armour, ancient ceramics, pipes, a flintlock gun, endless tools, buttons, cooked entrails, tiny fish and unwearable clothes. I settled on a piece of rank nostalgia - a board game depicting what we called G-Force but was called 'Kagaku ninja tai Gatchaman' in Japan. It is still in its packet complete with dice. How the game is meant to be played I'll never know.

The Bike and the Castle

AM

Least: By 11:30am, I was riding my bike towards Daikokucho. As usual, I was on the footpath and as usual I spent much of my time dodging slow-moving pedestrians and oncoming bicycles. My flattening tyres didn't help either - I was forced to pay 50 yen for compressed air. If I was game enough to ride on the deadly road my journey might've taken half the time as long as I didn't die in transit.

Most: Approaching 11:59am, I rode north with Jack through the backish streets towards Osaka Castle. It was amazing to be so engulfed by the city and we wondered how every apartment block could be full, or how the thousands of minor restaurants and bars could survive all pitted against one another. Although the direct sunlight was oppressive, we made it to our destination after a small detour over a bridge or two.

PM

Least: Sometime around 5:00pm, I discovered an unlikely victim of the humidity and heat. My quarter-filled jar of Nescafe Gold instant coffee had collapsed into a cube. With the lid only half screwed on, the freeze-dried granules stood no chance. The 98% humidity won - no more coffee from that jar.

Most: Just after 1:00pm, I caught my first glimpse of the ramparts of Osaka-jo. The scale of the stonework is enormous, imposing and no doubt intimidating to military planners. Some of the stones were so large that it seemed impossible that they could have been placed so accurately 400 years ago. Expensive drinks were available in the bailey and be-samuried men posed for photographs in between picking up rubbish with tongs. Despite the external qualities of the castle, the interior looked like most other multi-storey buildings. Foolishly we climbed the stairs rather than taking the lift. Most impressive were the suits of armour from 1615ish and the holographic dioramas on the 7th floor. From the viewing deck I could see as far as the Tsutenkaku through the smog. Luckily I could also keep an eye out for my bike, which was a speck on the other side of the outer moat. Lamentably, I forgot my camera and could only squeeze off a couple of shots of ultra low-res phone pics (above). I will return.